Sometimes we imagine early Oregon Country as a sort of lost paradise: a place of boundless forest and riverscape, where farms carved from the wild had room for both wolf and lamb, and men lived in peace with nature--and each other. Things may never have been that good; yet we've found an echo of that peaceful kingdom in a small piece of Oregon Country, Portland. It starts on a steep ridge crowned with the country's biggest, wildest urban forest; cascades down hillsides of storybook houses and gardens; then hits the Willamette River waterfront, where men and women still sweat the big stuff, wrestling masses of steel, lumber and grain. This rich urban ecosystem happened partly by accident. When Lewis and Clark canoed by in 1806, old-growth trees were plentiful, but within a few years of Portland's start in 1845 so many were gone the place was nicknamed Stumptown. On the heights, when developers developed the denuded slopes in the early 1900s, landslides ruined their plans. Portland's mild, rainy climate did the rest, returning hills to woods. Soon Portland cultivated a new nickname--the City of Roses. Today Forest Park, with more than 5000 acres of trees, 112 species of birds and 62 species of mammals, dominates West Portland & over half of your tour day.